Дресс-код Black tie для мужчин

Что такое Black Tie?

Дресс-код Black Tie не был упомянут выше среди основных регламентов. Это обусловлено тем, что его можно назвать особенным. Он немаловажен и широко популярен. Этот регламент диктует четкие правила для своей локализации. Так что же такое дресс-код Black Tie?

Как уже было описано выше, можно понять, что существуют регламенты исключительно строгие, не позволяющие никаких отклонений. Но есть и более упрощенные варианты, дающие некое право выбора. Дресс-код Black Tie, по своей сути, является строгим регламентом, уступающим первенство лишь White Tie.

Стиль «черный галстук» прописывает формат одеяний для торжественных случаев, светских раутов и официальных приемов. Так что если в списке походов и посещений на будущее есть мероприятие, прописывающее четко и ясно этот дресс-код, то очень кстати будет подробное ознакомление с ним. Сделаем это, дабы не упасть лицом в грязь, а блистать в полной мере.

Повседневный шик

Casual chic – полуофициальная одежда. Повседневный шик является удачной комбинацией дизайнерской или ежедневной одежды. На работе такой дресс-код предусматривает свободу выбора. Мужская мода casual chic не является чересчур нарядной и слишком традиционной. Стиль примечателен небрежностью, смелым кроем и яркими аксессуарами. Можно носить пиджак с джинсами, рубашки без джемпера.

Для женщин повседневный шик – это использование блузок, джинсов и жакетов с броскими акцентами. Например, изящные яркие ботильоны, крупная бижутерия или вечерний клатч. За основу шикарного образа можно брать платье. Потом к нему подбираются неожиданные аксессуары: мужскую шляпу, большую сумку, кеды. Отличительной чертой стиля является многослойность. Жакеты или пиджаки отлично сочетаются с брюками, платьями, юбками.

What “Creative Black Tie” Means

For Hosts – Don’t Confuse People

This designation is defined by Emily Post’s Etiquette as a “tuxedo combined with trendy or whimsical items” (usually related to the party’s theme) which most experts suggest be limited to the shirt, tie or accessories. GQ’s Style Guy describes it as “Dressing like the fashion victims you see on the Oscars. Tuxedos with black shirts. Tuxedos with no ties. Tuxedos with bolo ties.”

However, the details are largely irrelevant because the code should be avoided by hosts out of consideration for their guests. As Russell Smith points out, “If the words ‘black-tie optional’ on an invitation hit a panic button for most men, the words ‘creative black tie’ are even worse. Who would want to go to a party, unless it’s a fancy dress ball, to be judged by his costume?”

It appears that party planners are getting the message judging by a 2008 Wall Street Journal article titled “Uncreative Black Tie Please” which reported on a backlash brewing against “goofy” dress codes. It quotes a spokeswoman for the Emily Post Institute as saying that “The range of options can often be more frustrating rather than helpful for the invited” and those good manners require a host to make guests feel comfortable, not insecure.

A Fort Lauderdale event planner who learned her lesson the hard way tells the newspaper “I would rather throw a party and receive 25 calls after, saying ‘What a great party that was,’ than 25 calls beforehand asking, ‘What does this mean?’”

The moral of the story: leave the Black Tie code to its intended purpose of providing clarity, uniformity, and sophistication.

Black Tie Accessories from Fort Belvedere

Decoding the dress code lingo

Confusing terminology isn’t limited to the clothes. Sometimes understanding exactly what the dress code is asking for can be difficult.

Black tie will be worn by most of the guests and is encouraged by the hosts. You should wear black tie if you can — but you won’t get refused entrance without a tux. While your hosts don’t want to exclude anyone, they are trying to create a formal atmosphere and would prefer that guests dressed accordingly.

Similar to black tie preferred except more relaxed. You can expect fewer people in dinner jackets. Opting for a dark suit, tie, and white shirt means you won’t get mistaken for a waiter if the majority of guests choose to ignore the request.

Somewhat dreaded among partygoers, creative black tie requires a whimsical or playful accessory. Just what that entails is up to you. Perhaps some colorful socks or a patterned bow tie. Aim for unconventional but understated.

Основные подвиды и регламенты дресс кода

На сегодняшний день этикет делового мужчины подразумевает не только соблюдение дресс кода Блэйк тай, но и внутренней классификации подвидов. В нее входят несколько отдельных вариантов нарядов для мужчин, а именно:

1. Black Tie invited — в переводе такой дресс код переводится, как «приглашенный». Такой наряд уместен вечером на светских вечеринках в крупных компаниях и заведениях, ужинах в ресторане, на событиях в мире шоу-бизнеса или модных показах. Мужчине обязательно нужно надеть строгий смокинг.
2. Black tie Optional — в переводе такой дресс код переводится, как «необязательный». В данном случае смокинг можно заменить деловым костюмом темного оттенка, а также любую модель галстука, но в официальном стиле.
3. Creative Black tie — в переводе «креативный или творческий», то есть для мужчины допустим свободный и расслабленный наряд с оригинальным кроем, стильными аксессуарами ярких расцветок или наличием платка в нагрудном кармане.

Изначально базовый гардероб в стиле Black Tie требовал исключительно черно-белую цветовую гамму в наряде мужчины, но со временем требования смягчились и стали разнообразными. Мужчина может примерить костюм синего цвета, некоторые смельчаки отважились даже на более яркие оттенки

Важно лишь не переборщить, чтобы не оказаться «белой вороной» в конкретном заведении или на мероприятии

Who wears black tie well?

Axelle/Bauer-Griffin

Timothée Chalamet

Black tie, black shirt, black blazer, black trousers, black shoes. When unsure, take the colour signifier in the dress code excessively literally. Although his getup is technically unconventional (normally he would wear a white pleated dress shirt) it’s not going to ruffle too many feathers and looks stealthily cool.

Neilson Barnard

Donald Glover

The amazing thing about Donald Glover is that he can do traditional black tie and look perfectly measured. On the flip side, when straying from the norm he looks just as debonair. That takes sartorial skill (professional help) and charisma to pull off. Here he changes out the jacket for something a little more colourful and patterned, while retaining the formality of the dress code.

Dia Dipasupil

Roger Federer

The thirty-eight year old tennis player is a man of high class, silky smoothness and effortless style. Pictured below is a wild Roger Federer in his natural environment, very at ease, casually donning his pristine black tie outfit. No qualms. No troubles. This is immaculate black tie, sticking to the rulebook and executed perfectly. He absolutely aces it. Nope, I didn’t just say that. You did.

Steve Granitz

David Oyelowo

If you’ve seen a sharper white dinner jacket, please let us know. Genuinely. We love the black peak lapel detail as it brings a subtle consistency to what is a bold black tie jacket choice. The 43 year old actor, most famous for his role in Selma as Martin Luther King, matches it with a patent leather slipper.

The Gold Standard

If you want to adhere to the classic black tie dress code then choose the traditional tuxedo pictured above. As you can see from the picture, the classic black tie tux is solid black in color, is single breasted, has one single button, has a peaked satin-faced lapel, does not have vents at the back, and is made from grosgrain fabric. If you don’t want to go with a standard look but still want to stick to the black tie dress code then read on. In the next few paragraphs I will cover acceptable tuxedo color, cut, and fabric options.

Acceptable Tuxedo Colors

As I had mentioned, black is the classic tuxedo color for black tie functions but a dark midnight blue is an acceptable, and equally suited alternative. Both, black and midnight blue, are acceptable black tie tux colors for evening wear. White dinner jackets worn with black pants are common for day time black tie functions. This type of dress code is commonly referred to “warm weather black tie”.

Tuxedo Cuts & Styles

Besides color there are several designs and cuts available when choosing a tuxedo. First, let’s talk about the cut. Most common is the single breasted tuxedo. The other choice available is a double breasted jacket. The single breasted style is traditional and more classic. The double breasted cut was introduced in the 1930s. While the single breasted tux is typically worn unbuttoned, the double breasted cut should be worn buttoned – making a waist covering unnecessary (see below for waistcoat and cummerbund options). If you want to keep it traditional then choose the single breasted style, if you want something slightly out of the ordinary then the double breasted jacket would be a suited alternative. Keep in mind that the double breasted cut can be slightly less comfortable when sitting down.

Next, let’s talk about lapel styles. Most classic is the peaked lapel. Slightly less common but equally formal is the shawl lapel. Even though notch lapels are more common nowadays they are considered to be slightly less formal. Typically the lapel has a shiny silk facing that matches the facing on the jacket’s buttons.

Tuxedo Fabrics

The classic tuxedo is made from a fabric that has a fine diagonal ribbed texture that is also known as grosgrain. Depending on the quality and price point, tuxedo fabrics range from silk (on the higher end) to a man made polyester (lowest cost). Most common is fine worsted wool. I suggest you choose a natural fiber such as wool. It is more carefree than silk and much more breathable and comfortable than a synthetic fiber. Choose a wool that is labeled “super 100” or higher. The higher the number, the finer, shinier, and more exclusive the fabric.

Rent vs. Buy